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Many novices who play off-road vehicles often choose original parts when replacing wearing parts, but as a senior off-road enthusiast, our opinion is: The original buffer block is a "comfort limiter", not a "heavy-load load-bearing part". It is suitable for off-road use. + It's simply not enough for towing conditions.
1. There are three major defects inherent in the original car buffer block:
The material is too soft and the load-bearing capacity is seriously insufficient.
The original ones are all low-density soft rubber with a hardness of only 60 ~75A
Sufficient for daily light loads
Under heavy towing pressure, fully loaded off-road, direct crushing under steep slope pressure, and permanent collapse due to compression deformation.
The more it is used, the shorter it becomes, and it loses its limiting function, directly hitting the bridge and blocking the shock absorber.
Very poor fatigue resistance and prone to cracking and aging
Long-term bumps, high temperature exposure, mud and water erosion
Off-road shock + The trailer is pressed down repeatedly, 3 ~6 It will crack and shatter within a few months
It becomes hard and brittle in winter and soft and collapses in summer, with extremely poor stability.
The design stroke is short and the reserve margin is too small
The original factory is calibrated for urban commuting, leaving only a small compression stroke.
After modifications to raise, weight, and tow the suspension, the suspension sinkage increased significantly.
The original block was too short and hit the frame early. / The axle will damage the shock absorber and suspension seat.
2. Cross-country + Trailer vehicles, original factory replacement of fatal problems
1. Trailing is most likely to occur: The rear of the car collapsed and the posture was out of control
Trailer pull + The weight presses back, and the rear axle sinks a lot. The original soft buffer cannot withstand it, and the rear of the car sinks lower as it presses harder.
The front of the car rises and the grip becomes worse.
Drag and flick at high speed
The brakes nod badly and it is extremely unsafe to drive.
2. Extreme off-road "hard top directly damages the car"”
The original rubber is instantly pressed to the bottom when flying slopes, cross axles, or landing in big pits. A direct rigid impact without buffering can cause the shock absorber to leak and bend in the smallest case, or the rear axle, swing arm, and bracket to be deformed in severe cases.
3. No progressive support, worse bump comfort
Original rubber soft → There is no step-by-step buffering when crushed to death instantly, and the hard bounces and banging noises on bad roads are worse than those after modifications. PU Buffering is more bumpy.
3. A truly usable “replacement”” ≠ Original parts, reinforced parts of the same size
Many merchants say that the original factory position can be replaced, and there are two types:：
Pure original rubber replacement → Not recommended, it means nothing has been changed and money is wasted.
Original car size high density PU buffer block → This is a qualified replacement for modification
PU Advantages of reinforced buffer blocks compared to original manufacturers
Hardness 90 ~95A， No collapse under heavy load
Resistant to compression and deformation, life span is more than 5 times that of rubber
Gradual cushioning, soft landing impact
Lifting, towing and fully loaded scenarios hold live
Direct installation in situ, no need to modify any brackets
After the above three points of analysis, I believe everyone already understands the suggestions that Bonpora wants to give you.：Only travel in the city, no pulling goods, no towing, no off-roading: Original factory replacement for casual use ；Just play off-road + Often towed: Replacement of original rubber is strictly prohibited ； Want to install without loss: Directly replace the same installation position for high density PU Reloading the buffer block is a correct replacement for modification, not an original replacement.
